SHOW: Rings 104
Title: Ring. General: 18K Gold Ring set with Ruby Cabouchons. Material: 18K Gold. Gem: Ruby. Method: Cast. Finish: Polished. Mechanics: Bezel/Bead Set. Designer: W.van Heeckeren. Craftsman: W.van Heeckeren. Price: AUS $ 8000.00.
name: RUBY
colour: Varying red
colour of streak: White
mohs hardness: 9
specific gravity: 3.97-4.05
cleavage: None
fracture: Small conchical, uneven, splintery, brittle
crystal system: Hexagonal ( trigonal ); hexagonal prisms or tablets,
rhombohedrons
chemical composition: AI203, alumiinium oxide
transparency: Opaque, translucent, transparent
refractive index: 1.766 - 1.774
double refraction: 0.008
dispersion: 0.018
pleochroism: Strong; yellow-red, deep ruby-red
absorption spectrum: 6942, 6928,66680,6592, 6100-5000, 4765, 4750, 4685
fluorescence: Strong; ruby-red
CASTING is a method by which moulten metal is poured into a mold
in order to achieve the desired shape. In the "Lost
Wax" method, an accurate wax model is made. The wax
model is invested (put in a chrystobalite plaster),
after the investment has set, the wax is burned out in
a Kiln. This leaves a negative cavity into which the
moulten metal may be poured.
Wal.
Bezel Setting is done by making a sheet metal surround (the
bezel) for the stone. Once the jewelry has been finished
the stone is then set. In setting the stone, the stone is
placed in the bezel, and the bezel is shrunk in around the
stone, by pushing it in little by little evenly around the
circumference, until the metal seals tight against the
stone. As a finishing touch a flat graver is used to bright
cut the edge of the bezel at right angles to the plane of
the bezel.
Wal.
In Bead Setting a seat is cut for the stone in the object,
small amounts of metal are then raised out of the
surrounding metal with an engraving tool, and
pushed over the stone, to act as claws. These claws
are then tightened down onto the stone with a small
tool with a concave end. By rotating this tool
over the claw, the claw is formed into a small
ball or bead. The tool is called a beading tool.
Wal.
18K GOLD is a ternary Gold alloy consisting of:
750 parts/1000 Pure Gold.
125 parts/1000 Pure Silver.
125 parts/1000 Pure Copper.
Annealing temperature: 750 degrees Celsius.
Melting Temperature: 950 degrees Celsius.
Wal.